Niacinamide: What It Does and How to Use It

Niacinamide serums and skincare on the shelves at Sapien Skin + Beauty

You want calmer, more even looking skin, and your skin does not love being pushed. Niacinamide is the ingredient that fits that brief. It works quietly, it plays well with almost everything else in your routine, and the research behind it is solid.

What Niacinamide Does for Your Skin

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. Your skin uses it in a lot of everyday work, and when you give it more, three things show up.

  • A stronger barrier. Niacinamide helps skin make more of its own ceramides, the lipids that hold the barrier together, and in testing it reduced the amount of water lost through the skin. [1] Skin feels more comfortable and holds onto hydration better.
  • A more even tone. It slows the transfer of pigment up into the surface cells. In clinical testing, 5 percent niacinamide lightened the look of dark spots within a few weeks of use. [2]
  • Calmer, smoother looking skin. In a 12 week split face study, 5 percent niacinamide visibly reduced red blotchiness, dark spots and fine lines compared with the same cream without it. [3]

Why It Fits Into Almost Any Routine

Most ingredients that change how skin looks ask something of it first. Niacinamide asks very little. It sits comfortably next to vitamin C, retinol, exfoliating acids and sunscreen, which is why you will find it inside so many of the formulas we carry rather than standing alone. You often already have it in your routine, doing its job in the background.

Where to Find Niacinamide at Sapien

Shop by concern: Redness and Sensitivity, Dark Spots and Uneven Tone and Congestion and Breakouts.

Shop the Niacinamide Products in This Guide

  • EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46
  • EltaMD UV Clear Tinted SPF 46 EltaMD UV Clear Tinted SPF 46
  • SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense SkinCeuticals Discoloration Defense
  • SkinBetter Science Even Intensive SkinBetter Science Even Intensive
  • SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Clearing Serum SkinBetter Science AlphaRet Clearing Serum
  • SkinBetter Science Mystro Active Balance Serum SkinBetter Science Mystro Active Balance Serum

How to Use Niacinamide in Your Routine

Use it the way the product it lives in tells you to. A niacinamide serum goes on after cleansing and after Plated, before moisturizer. In a sunscreen it is your last morning step, two finger lengths for face and neck, reapplied through the day. Consistency matters more than amount: the studies above saw change over weeks of daily use, not overnight.

Questions People Ask

Should I use niacinamide in the morning or at night?

Either works. Many people already get it every morning through their sunscreen, and a niacinamide serum fits into the morning or evening routine just as well.

Can I use niacinamide every day?

Yes. Daily use is how it was studied, and daily is how it shows results.

Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C?

Yes. They work well together, and many routines use both every morning. Read our vitamin C serum guide.

Can I use niacinamide with retinol?

Yes. Niacinamide supports the barrier while retinol does its work, so the two are a comfortable pair.

Can I use niacinamide with exfoliating acids?

Yes. Use your exfoliant on the nights your routine calls for it, and keep niacinamide in its usual place.

Does niacinamide help with oily skin and pores?

It can help with shine. In a study of 2 percent niacinamide, the rate of oil production on the skin dropped over four weeks of use. [4] Less shine makes pores look less noticeable.

Does niacinamide help with dark spots?

Yes. It slows the transfer of pigment to the surface of the skin, and in testing 5 percent niacinamide lightened the look of dark spots within weeks. [2] For a dedicated routine, see Dark Spots and Uneven Tone.

Is niacinamide good for sensitive skin?

It is one of the gentler ingredients there is, and it supports the barrier that sensitive skin relies on. If your skin reacts to anything new, bring it to us and we will build around it.

Is more niacinamide better?

No. The research that shows results uses around 2 to 5 percent. A formula built around the right amount, used every day, beats a higher number used now and then.

How long does niacinamide take to work?

Skin often feels more comfortable within the first couple of weeks. Changes in the look of tone, redness and fine lines build over two to three months.

Working on redness or dark spots beyond what a serum can do? See our redness and sensitivity treatments and discoloration treatments in Seattle.

Why a Routine Made for You Works Better

General advice is written for everyone, so it has to assume nothing about you. It can tell you what is safe. It cannot tell you what will work for your skin.

A skin therapist looks at your skin, your health, your lifestyle, what you use now and what you want to change, then builds a routine you will actually keep and adjusts it as your skin responds. That is why we guarantee our products when they are part of a routine designed by one of our skin therapists.

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References

  1. Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. Br J Dermatol. 2000;143(3):524-531. PMID 10971324
  2. Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol. 2002;147(1):20-31. PMID 12100180
  3. Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860-865. PMID 16029679
  4. Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. J Cosmet Laser Ther. 2006;8(2):96-101. PMID 16766489

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